Tucked away in the remote highlands of western Guatemala, Huehuetenango (often called “Huehue” by locals) is a region rich in natural beauty, ancient history, and cultural diversity. Though less traveled by tourists compared to other parts of Guatemala, Huehuetenango offers a unique and authentic experience that showcases the country’s indigenous traditions, breathtaking landscapes, and archaeological wonders.
Arrival in Huehuetenango
Huehuetenango is a city as well as a department, and my journey to this hidden gem began with a scenic drive through Guatemala’s mountainous terrain. The drive itself was an adventure, as winding roads led me through mist-covered peaks, verdant valleys, and small rural villages where life seemed to move at a slower, more peaceful pace. The main city of Huehuetenango, while relatively modest compared to Guatemala City or Antigua, serves as a central hub for exploring the surrounding countryside.
Upon arrival in the city, I found it to be a blend of modern and traditional Guatemala, with bustling markets, lively streets, and a strong indigenous presence. Zona 1, the city’s downtown area, is where I spent much of my time, exploring local shops, cafes, and the town square, which is often filled with street vendors selling everything from textiles to delicious local foods.
Mayan Ruins of Zaculeu
One of Huehuetenango’s most fascinating historical sites is the ancient Maya city of Zaculeu, located just outside the city. Zaculeu was once the capital of the Mam Maya people, and its ruins still stand as a testament to their architectural and cultural achievements. The site is dominated by imposing pyramids and temples made of stone, surrounded by grassy plazas. Walking among the ruins, I felt the weight of history, imagining the Mam warriors and rulers who once inhabited this city, defending it against Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century.
The best part of visiting Zaculeu was the lack of crowds. Unlike some of Guatemala’s more famous archaeological sites, Zaculeu feels like a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered. I wandered the ruins at my own pace, climbing the pyramids for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Natural Wonders: Laguna Brava and Cenotes
Huehuetenango is home to some of Guatemala’s most striking natural landscapes, including Laguna Brava (also known as Yalambojoj). Located near the border with Mexico, this remote and stunning lake is known for its intense blue and green waters, surrounded by lush mountains and forests. The journey to Laguna Brava was an adventure in itself, requiring a long drive followed by a hike through dense forest, but the reward was more than worth it. I spent hours taking in the beauty of the lake, its peaceful waters reflecting the surrounding mountains like a mirror.
Another must-see natural attraction in Huehuetenango is the Cenotes de Candelaria, a series of deep, turquoise cenotes (natural sinkholes) hidden within the forests. Swimming in these crystal-clear waters was one of the most refreshing experiences of my trip, and the beauty of the cenotes, with their cool waters and forested surroundings, was nothing short of magical.
Trekking the Cuchumatanes Mountains
For those who love adventure and the great outdoors, the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes—the highest non-volcanic mountain range in Central America—offers some of the best trekking and hiking in Guatemala. With altitudes reaching over 3,800 meters (12,500 feet), the Cuchumatanes are a landscape of rolling hills, deep valleys, and rugged peaks. As I hiked through the mountains, I was surrounded by terraced farmlands, pine forests, and breathtaking views that stretched on for miles.
One of the highlights of my trek was visiting the small, traditional villages nestled in the mountains. Here, indigenous communities maintain their ancient customs and way of life, wearing traditional clothing and speaking their native languages. In places like Todos Santos Cuchumatán, a village renowned for its vibrant culture, I witnessed a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. The locals are incredibly welcoming, and I had the chance to participate in local festivals, sample traditional foods, and learn about the village’s history.
Indigenous Culture and Traditions
Huehuetenango is one of Guatemala’s most culturally diverse regions, with many indigenous groups calling the area home. The Mam and Q’anjob’al Maya communities are among the largest, and their presence is felt throughout the department. In the small towns and villages surrounding the main city, I saw people dressed in traditional trajes, or indigenous garments, intricately woven with patterns and colors that represent their cultural identity.
I was fortunate enough to visit during one of the region’s traditional fiestas, which are vibrant, colorful celebrations filled with music, dancing, and local rituals. One of the most famous festivals is the Todos Santos horse race, held annually in the town of Todos Santos Cuchumatán. The race is not just a sporting event but a cultural and spiritual ceremony, where local men, many of whom are intoxicated, ride horses at full speed through the streets, paying homage to their ancestors. It was a thrilling and slightly chaotic spectacle that I was lucky to witness.
Off the Beaten Path
What I loved most about Huehuetenango was the sense that I was truly off the beaten path. While much of Guatemala’s tourism is concentrated in places like Antigua, Lake Atitlán, and Tikal, Huehuetenango remains relatively unexplored by international travelers. This gave me the opportunity to experience a side of Guatemala that feels authentic and untouched by mass tourism.
The landscapes, from misty highlands to crystal-clear lakes, combined with the region’s strong cultural identity, made Huehuetenango feel like a world of its own. It’s a place where you can disconnect from the fast pace of modern life and immerse yourself in nature, history, and indigenous traditions.
Final Thoughts
Huehuetenango is a hidden gem in Guatemala that offers an unforgettable travel experience for those willing to venture off the main tourist trail. From ancient Maya ruins and stunning natural wonders to rich indigenous culture and adventurous mountain treks, Huehuetenango has something for every traveler. If you’re looking for a unique, authentic, and truly beautiful destination in Guatemala, don’t miss the chance to explore this remarkable highland region.