Why should you trust me and take my advice?
I moved to Guatemala to be with my husband, and I’ve been lucky to call this country my new home. We spend most of our free time traveling all over Guatemala, and we have traveled multiple times to the most popular tourist destinations. We’ve been to Antigua numerous times and to Sumpango twice. My advice and travel tips are based on extensive experience.
If you have a long list of questions or need help creating a customized Guatemala itinerary, please click here to book a travel consultation with me. For an introduction to traveling to Guatemala, click here for my Ultimate Guatemala Travel Guide.
Also, click here to read my Antigua Guatemala Travel Guide.
Every November 1, the small Guatemalan town of Sumpango comes alive with one of the country’s most spectacular cultural celebrations: the Festival de Barriletes Gigantes, or Giant Kite Festival.
I’ve attended this festival twice, and it’s an experience I recommend to anyone visiting Guatemala for All Saints’ Day. You can expect to see enormous, colorful kites, traditional food, lively crowds, and the sight of local families honoring their loved ones. If you visit Sumpango for this festival, then you’ll have the chance to experience a meaningful Guatemalan tradition.
If you’re planning to attend, here’s what to know before you go.
What Is the Giant Kite Festival?
The festival takes place every November 1, coinciding with Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day). The tradition is closely connected to the community’s remembrance of deceased loved ones and the belief that the kites help connect the living with their ancestors.
In 2024, UNESCO added the giant-kite-making tradition of Sumpango and neighboring Santiago Sacatepéquez to its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The kites, known locally as barriletes, are remarkable works of art. Some measure many meters across and in height, and feature intricate designs made from brightly colored paper. Their artwork can communicate messages about Guatemalan culture, community identity, the environment, social issues, and human rights.
But what makes the festival especially impressive is the work behind each kite.
How Are the Giant Kites Made?
The kites aren’t mass-produced decorations, as they are handmade works of art and the result of months of planning with collaborative work by local teams.
Groups begin preparing well in advance, developing their designs and deciding what message they want their kite to communicate. They construct the framework, prepare the surface, and carefully apply thousands of pieces of colored paper to create elaborate images and patterns.
The process requires patience, artistic skill, and teamwork. The finished kites are so large that displaying them requires considerable coordination. Teams work together to assemble and raise them, and the result is an extraordinary outdoor exhibition of local art.
What to Expect in Sumpango on the Day of the Festival?
The giant kite festival is held on a giant field in the middle of the town. It’s a wide-open space where the giant kites are displayed, and later in the afternoon, locals will fly many of the kites (including the smaller ones). The festival gets very crowded, but it’s manageable because it’s a wide-open space.
The cemetery where people gather takes approximately 10-20 minutes to walk to, depending on how crowded it is when you move around. The pathways to walk around become much more crowded than the open field. In order to get to the cemetery, I recommend asking locals, or if you’ve joined a tour, then you’ll arrive without a problem! I recommend visiting the cemetery during the late morning and after most of the kites have been put up on display but also before lunchtime.
If you need to use the bathroom while you’re in Sumpango, you’ll find signs from people’s homes who rent their bathrooms to use. You’ll need to pay a few quetzales, so make sure you have cash.
For lunch and drinks, you can find many pop-up vendors surrounding the large field where they display and fly the kites. Locals are selling street food and full meals as well as beer and a variety of drinks. Once again, I recommend bringing cash for this.
When the locals fly the kites, they will make a large pathway in the middle of the field. Tourists and locals who want to watch the tradition will stand on both sides and cheer on the locals who are flying the kites. I recommend remaining alert and aware because the kites will hit the ground quickly, and I’ve seen people get injured (only minor injuries). There are local medical professionals on-site ready for any problems! I’ve watched this two times and without a problem, but I’ve seen the kites quickly hit the ground, and since they are so large, I would not want to be underneath them! They usually fly the kites just after lunchtime.
What Happens on the Morning of the Festival?
The morning is an important part of the experience, and I recommend arriving as early as possible. The crowds and traffic will generally increase as the day progresses, but if you arrive early, then you can start to see them set up with smaller crowds.
Local teams assemble and raise the giant kites so visitors can see their designs. Watching these enormous kites being brought upright is impressive in itself. Once they’re raised, you can walk around the display area and appreciate the artwork up close.
The festival takes place near the town cemetery, where another important part of the day’s observances is happening.
Families visit the graves of their loved ones, cleaning and decorating them with flowers and other offerings. People gather to pray, remember relatives, share food, and spend time together. These visits are part of the All Saints’ Day tradition, which is observed in different ways throughout Guatemala.
Something to consider is that the cemetery is a meaningful place for local families, and not simply another tourist attraction. It’s important to be respectful when taking photographs, and particularly when people are praying or spending time at a loved one’s grave. Ask permission before photographing individuals at close range.
What Can You Eat at the Festival?
One of the enjoyable parts of attending is exploring the temporary food stalls and markets that spring up around the event.
You can expect a lively atmosphere with vendors selling snacks, traditional Guatemalan dishes, drinks, sweets, and other local products. The selection varies, but you may find tostadas, dobladas, grilled foods, and traditional atol drinks, along with other popular street foods.
November 1 is also associated with fiambre, a special cold dish prepared for All Saints’ Day. The recipes for this can vary between families, and the dish can contain an extensive assortment of vegetables, cheeses, meats, and other ingredients. I did not specifically see this dish being sold in Sumpango, but I want to mention it because it’s a tradition all across Guatemala.
If you come to Sumpango for this festival, then I recommend bringing cash in small denominations, as most vendors will not accept cards. You’ll also find plenty of activity beyond the food stalls, including vendors selling souvenirs and other goods. Take some time to explore rather than spending the entire visit in the kite display area.
Do the Giant Kites Actually Fly?
This is something worth understanding before you visit.
The largest kites are generally raised upright for display rather than flown freely. Their enormous size makes launching and keeping them airborne extremely difficult. One of the best experiences of the festival comes from seeing the giant kites standing high above the crowds, revealing their elaborate artwork.
Later in the day, smaller kites take center stage during the flying portion of the festival. You’ll see teams attempt to launch the kites they’ve created, and the results depend on the wind and other conditions.
The afternoon can be exciting, but don’t expect every giant kite you see in photographs to soar through the sky. The monumental displays and the flying competition are different parts of the experience.
If you want to see the largest designs up close, I once again recommend arriving early in the morning to view the displays. If you’re particularly interested in watching kites fly, plan to stay into the afternoon, while remembering that the schedule and flying conditions can vary.
Getting to Sumpango: Tours vs. Private Transportation
It typically takes 30 minutes to drive from Antigua Guatemala to Sumpango. However, on festival day, the journey can take considerably longer because thousands of people travel to the event.
My advice is to arrange your transportation in advance. I wouldn’t recommend simply setting off without a plan, especially if you’re unfamiliar with Guatemala or have a limited amount of time.
Option 1: Book a Guided Day Tour
I highly recommend booking a day tour with Due South Travels because not only will they take care of the transportation, but they will include a licensed guide, and you will learn so much!. I booked a tour on November 1, 2024, with Due South Travels and recommend contacting them to ask about what they offer each year. Their email address is info@duesouthtravels.com.
During the tour, the guide will take you to the cemetery to explain the traditions of families gathering to celebrate the connection between life and their deceased loved ones. The guide will also provide an overview of the giant kites, including how they’re made and flown.
Option 2: Hire a Private Driver
If you prefer to explore independently without joining a group tour, I recommend GuateDriver for private transportation between Antigua and Sumpango.
This option can be especially convenient for couples, families, or groups who want their own vehicle and a little more flexibility. You can contact GuateDriver directly at info@guatedriver.com or on WhatsApp at +502-3775-7831.
Is it Safe to Visit Sumpango?
Yes! I’ve been twice to experience the festival, and even though I’ve traveled with my husband, he was not with me the entire time. There are plenty of tourists roaming around during the day and tour groups as well. I wouldn’t hesitate to travel here on my own, but I think it’s better to arrive with a guide to learn in-depth about the traditions.
Where Should You Stay?
For most international visitors, Antigua Guatemala makes a convenient base for attending the festival as a day trip. Especially since this is the most popular tourist destination in Guatemala and you can find a wide range of accommodation options, restaurants, and other activities in the city. It takes approximately 30 – 60 minutes to transfer from Antigua to Sumpango (depending on traffic).
These are the hotels I recommend in Antigua:
🛌 Porta Hotel: This is my all-time favorite hotel in Antigua. It’s on the pricier side but 100% worth the cost, as the customer service is amazing, the rooms are very comfortable, and the pool and restaurant are very nice! The hotel is within walking distance to everything in Antigua. Click here to book.
🛌 Hotel Genesis: This is a budget-friendly option with comfortable rooms and a beautiful garden! They also have a great restaurant, and the hotel is within walking distance to everything in Antigua. Click here to book.
🛌 El Carmen Hotel: This is a mid-range-priced hotel located near the Central Plaza and with a very nice terrace where you can see the volcano erupting while eating breakfast! The rooms are small but comfortable, and the hotel is within walking distance to everything in Antigua. Click here to book.
🛌 Posada Doña Luisa: This is another budget-friendly option with comfortable rooms and pleasant staff. They have an on-site spa, and it’s within walking distance to everything in Antigua. Click here to book.
🛌 Casa Santo Domingo: This is probably the most famous and luxurious hotel in Antigua. The hotel is a former convent, and there is an on-site museum. The entire property is beautiful, and it’s within walking distance to everything in Antigua. Click here to book.
🛌 Hotel Meson del Valle by AHS: This is another mid-range-priced hotel that is a great value. The property is within walking distance to everything in Antigua, and the rooms are very comfortable. Click here to book.
🏩 Medical emergencies and travel insurance
Guatemala’s public (free) healthcare system is not very good, but you can find very high-quality private healthcare available in the country. However, if you need to visit a private hospital, you could possibly be required to pay thousands of dollars upfront. This is why every tourist in Guatemala should have a travel insurance policy.
I recommend Safety Wing because they offer health and travel insurance, including a simple claims process and great customer service! The insurance plans cover hospital stays, medications, surgery, travel delays, lost luggage, and more. You can click here to read more and to sign up for a plan.
🗣️ Language
Most people in Guatemala speak Spanish and not English. Therefore, it’s important to at least learn the basics to be able to communicate with people. In the tourist areas, you’ll find some people who will speak a bit of English but also many travel guides who speak English very well. The majority of drivers, people on the buses, shop owners, wait staff, etc., do not speak English.
The online language program I’ve used with the most success is Rocket Languages. I like Rocket Languages because the platform prioritizes conversational fluency and active speaking over flashcards and gamification (compared to many other language learning tools). Rocket Languages has interactive audio lessons, advanced speech recognition, and comprehensive grammar. They offer both an online and mobile option for using the platform, and you can click here to check it out.
💰 Cash, credit cards, and ATMs
You can use your credit cards in many restaurants and hotels in the main tourist areas in Guatemala. However, there are cash-only places such as small local restaurants, markets, tuk-tuk drivers, lancha (boat) transportation, tips, and more. You will absolutely need cash, and I recommend using the local ATMs to take out cash for a small fee (do not use the money exchange at the airport, as they have a very bad rate).
If you’re traveling from the U.S., many banks will allow you to pre-order Quetzales at a very good rate. This is what I’ve done through Wells Fargo many times while traveling back and forth between Guatemala and Florida.
📱 Internet & data
Most hotels, hostels, Airbnbs, and restaurants will have free wi-fi. Although sometimes it works well, at times it doesn’t! If you need consistent data and wi-fi access, then I suggest downloading an app with an eSIM. Now that I live in Guatemala, I use a local SIM, but when I was initially traveling here, I used an Airalo eSIM. This was easy to set up and convenient, rather than wasting time going into the Tigo or Claro store in Guatemala to get a physical SIM. You can click here to download the app and set up service.
🛌 Hotels & Accommodation
The website I recommend using to find hotels and apartments in various destinations in Guatemala is Booking.com. In my opinion, this is the platform with the most extensive options in Guatemala and for competitive prices. You can search on Booking.com by date, location, and preferences such as free parking, air conditioning, a private bathroom, review score, etc.
🚗 Transportation in Guatemala
In Guatemala, you can use tourist shuttles or private buses to transfer around the country but also, hire a private driver. To search for the best option for a private bus or shuttle, I recommend checking out the platform Guatego.com. This platform will give you all the best options every day, with the prices and times for the transfers. If you want to hire a private driver, then I recommend contacting GuateDriver to receive a quote. You can contact them on WhatsApp at +502-3775-7831 or at info@guatedriver.com.
👂 Noise cancellation
I recommend traveling to Guatemala with earplugs because this country can be LOUD. I am not exaggerating, as there are often roosters crowing, loud motorcycles, dogs barking, and weddings or celebrations with fireworks. If you bring earplugs with you, then you can thank me later. Click here for my favorite earplugs.
🥑 Food & Water
In Guatemala, the water from the faucet is not safe to drink; however, most restaurants will serve a glass of filtered water or bottled water. Many restaurants will insist that tourists buy a bottle of water, which costs money compared to a free glass of water, and it’s worse for the environment. However, most restaurants, especially in Guatemala City or the tourist areas, will serve you a free glass of filtered water. Whenever I’m in a sit-down restaurant, I’ll tell them I want “vaso con agua,” which means I want a glass of water instead of bottled water. If you’re worried, then you can order bottled water everywhere, but I haven’t had a problem ordering and drinking filtered water at sit-down restaurants.
I also recommend traveling to Guatemala with a water bottle with a built-in filter. I use the LifeStraw bottle in Guatemala, and it completely filters out any of the bad stuff and works well! You can buy this online by clicking here. Also, if you’re the type of person who has a sensitive stomach, then I recommend avoiding street food or eating anything raw. Usually, the raw vegetables are fine, but as an extra precaution, I would skip those.
Something else to note is that tourists often get sick from eating street food or food from local markets in local areas. Unfortunately, I’ve had a parasite two times, and I needed to take medication to get rid of it. This can be very uncomfortable and can greatly interrupt your trip. Therefore, if you’re worried at all or if you already know that you have a sensitive stomach, then I would skip eating street food or food from the local market unless you’re at the Central Markets in Antigua or Guatemala City.
I’ve never been sick from the food at sit-down restaurants in Guatemala or the markets in Antigua or Guatemala City. However, travelers have commented on my posts to let me know they have been sick. I think it’s important to bring medicine for diarrhea in your luggage and be prepared with travel insurance just in case. Most likely you won’t have a problem, but anything can happen.
🔑 Portable safe
In my experience, many hotels in Guatemala do not have a safe. Therefore, I recommend buying a portable safe that can be locked to many different fixtures in a hotel room. You can put your laptop, passport, extra cash, etc. inside this safe and hide your valuables. Click here to buy the portable safe I’ve always used in Guatemala.
☀️ Sun protection
It can get very sunny in Guatemala, and sunblock can be expensive to buy in the country. Oftentimes it’s double or triple the price, so whenever I’m in the U.S., I’ll stock up and bring it back with me. Click here to buy the sunscreen I always use for my face, and this is the natural sunscreen I buy for my body.
🧭 Navigation
Most people in the U.S. tend to use Google Maps, but after living in Guatemala for a few years and traveling all over, I recommend using Waze. This is what my Guatemalan husband uses to drive around the country, and I’ve noticed that it works much better than Google Maps. For example, there are often road closures, and drivers will need to be rerouted. Waze always shows us these closures, but Google Maps does not. Also, I tried to use Google Maps in the department of Huehuetenango, but it took us to roads that did not exist. Therefore, I recommend downloading this and using it in Guatemala if you decide to drive yourself or if you want to track the route of your personal driver.
Do You Need More Travel Tips for Guatemala?
Check out my Ultimate Guide for Guatemala! This blog post provides an introduction to traveling to Guatemala, a high-level overview of how to plan a trip, what to expect, and my best travel tips for the country. Click here to review this guide.
You can also check out my guides for specific destinations in Guatemala:
📍 Antigua
📍Semuc Champey + other places in Alta Verapaz
📍Río Dulce + Livingston + Playa Blanca + Puerto Barrios
📍Tikal + other places in Petén
📍Huehuetenango: Laguna Brava + the llama farms + Zaculeu + more!
Or, if you need help with a customized itinerary, then you can book a travel consultation with me! Click here to review my calendar for availability and the cost of this service.
Please note that some links on my site are affiliate links. This means that at no additional cost to you, I earn a small commission if you click through these links and make a booking or purchase. By using these links, you’re supporting my blog so I can continue to publish content and travel recommendations for Guatemala. Something important to mention is that I only feature recommendations I believe in and use myself. Thank you!